Making Friends and a Lifetime of Memories

The journey of a lifetime awaited all of us dreamy-eyed delegates to the Ship for Southeast Asian Youth Program (SSEAYP) as we hopped aboard SS Nippon Maru on a bright sunny Oct. 8, 1975. Set for Oct. 8-Nov. 28, 1975, it was the second year of this annual youth exchange program that brought together 180 young people, aged 18-30, from ASEAN countries and Japan, sponsor/ host country. 

Ambassadors of goodwill? Being young and perhaps immature, the mere thought of meeting and shaking hands with Asia’s heads of state and powerful leaders was intimidating enough, even  as we carried our red diplomatic passports with pride and honour. Must be a tough job for a gaggle of newbies like us who had not even travelled outside of our respective countries. Believe it  or not, armed only with an unsinkable spirit of adventure, we had tons of fun making new friends, assimilating each other’s culture, and living together as one big, happy family on the good  ship SS Nippon Maru. But that’s getting ahead of the story. 

WELCOME TO SINGAPORE 

After a tearful send-off from parents and some thoughtful parting words from Assistant Executive Secretary Ramon “Eki” Cardenas, we boarded a Philippine Airlines flight for Singapore on the  morning of Oct. 8. This year, the program kicked off in Singapore, the Lion City where we received a warm, roaring welcome from the Singaporean delegates who presented us with a bouquet  of exotic orchids that made us feel like instant celebrities. The Singapore delegation, composed of 14 girls and 16 boys, was headed by Youth Leader (YL) Tan Eng Leong, national service  officer, and Assistant Youth Leader (AYL) Pauline Yip Poh Lin, education officer. 

We couldn’t wait to get to the port where SS Nippon Maru was docked, gleaming in the distance in all its seaworthy glory. After checking in, we were each given our room assignment. Back  home, we were divided into six Solidarity Groups (SGs Amiable, Brotherly, Courteous, Disciplined, Exemplary, Friendly), which would merge with the corresponding solidarity groups of the  other participating countries. 

My room assignment was 326, located at B deck, the southern part of the ship. My roommates, who later became my best friends, were Thai student Areerat Kiatdamrong and working youth/  princess by heredity Dayang Hamdiah of East Sabah, Malaysia. 

As we embarked on an exciting voyage of discovery, the next order of the day was lunch! Since the program had not yet officially commenced, our National Leader (NL), then Col. Honesto  Isleta, a loving but strict father to us all, treated us to cup noodles from the vending machine. But what about the fork and spoon? Our new Singaporean friend Kalsom pointed at what looked  like a pair of slender wooden sticks. Yes, chopsticks! But how do you eat with these? The next day, some Filipino delegates attended a crash course on how to use chopsticks. 

Aside from the very popular vending machines, the ship facilities included a shop, post office which was always full of homesick souls, barber and beauty salons, laundry, bar, and a hospital  where a ship doctor was available 24/7.

During the brief welcome ceremonies at the Assembly Hall, the delegates were introduced to the ship’s crew and staff headed by the soft-spoken and well-loved administrator Hideshi Honda  san of the Youth Bureau of the Prime Minister’s Office, as well as the different countries’ National Leaders (NLs). 

On that day, too, the State of PYAESS (SSEAYP spelled backwards) was born, its mission being to foster solidarity and unity among member countries. 

The day’s formalities over, we made a beeline for the dining room, where we were served the biggest steak. I had ever seen and the most filling tempura I had ever eaten. It was to be just a  delicious preview of the food adventure in store for us on and off the ship. 

Of course, our day on the ship always started with a huge breakfast consisting of half a slice of lemon grapefruit, oatmeal, two fried eggs, bacon, and salad, in that order. As the days wore on,  we started asking the kitchen staff why they make us eat too many eggs every morning. 

PRIME MINISTER MIKI ON WORLD UNDERSTANDING 

The following day, everybody gathered for the program’s formal inauguration ceremonies at the Shade Deck, where the welcome speech of Japan Prime Minister Takeo Miki was read. Prime  Minister Miki noted that Asian countries were increasingly becoming interdependent on each other and the success of SSEAYP would further contribute to the peace and prosperity in Asia  and, ultimately, to world understanding. 

And so, SSEAYP 1975 officially got off the ground. We couldn’t wait to dive into our packed itinerary in the Lion City. Such as: the Garden City blooming amid Singapore’s high-rise buildings,  the open-air hawker centre with its assorted food offerings, our first-ever cable car ride, visits to Singapore’s big universities and Musical Art Centre, meeting with the youths of the People’s  Association (PA), and shopping at the People’s Park in Chinatown. 

We capped our Singapore visit with the famous Lion Dance performance by Singaporean participating youths (PYs) Awyong Thiam Seng, Lee Choon Seng and Tan Sian Kwang. And in the  afternoon of Oct. 12, a flurry of ticker tape descended below us as we waved our respective mini flags and tossed air kisses to our newfound friends while the gracious SS Nippon Maru warmed  its engines for the long sea journey to our next port of call — Jakarta, Indonesia. 

Two days at sea? Did we ever get seasick or even homesick? Yes, but we drowned our seasickness and chased the blues away with the waves of activities that kept us on our toes while sailing  from one port to another. For instance, we had our regular early morning exercise at the Shade Deck, animated boardroom discussions among PYs, sports activities, contests, quizzes, endless  chatter, and disco at the Social Lounge, and the much-awaited National Day presentation of each country. Indeed, the ship administration made sure there was never a dull moment while  sailing. 

SS Nippon Maru was doing beautifully at 16.4 knots on 9,000 HP, so we were assured by our ever-jolly Captain Michiyoshi Yuba san. 

As we cruised towards Jakarta, the Indonesian delegation held their National Day, a standard feature where each country showcased its history, culture, politics, food, etc. for a whole day  which ended with a cultural night. 

DATELINE: INDONESIA 

After two days on the high seas, we finally caught sight of Tanjung Priok Port on a sunshiny morning of Oct. 14. We were asked to assemble at the Shade Deck in our Attire A (formal uniform).  Attire B was semi-formal. Attire C was for casual events while Attire D consisted of a gym suit and rubber shoes for the morning exercise. 

We lined up, as usual, by nationality and walked down the gangway as a giant costumed puppet cheerfully greeted us with an Indonesian folk dance.

Topping our diary of memories was the surprise reception at the President Suharto’s Summer Palace in Bogor. We were certainly surprised to meet Madame Suharto who looked stunning in a  fuchsia Indonesian dress and spoke to us in Bahasa Indonesia. Later, we serenaded the First Lady of Indonesia with our songs like Dahil sa ‘Yo, made famous by our own First Lady Imelda  Romualdez Marcos. 

Highlights of our Indonesian visit included the welcome reception at a Youth Centre, where we were treated to a late snack and a spectacle of Indonesian dances and martial arts; a tour of  Indonesia Indah (Beautiful Indonesia or Indonesia in miniature, much like the Philippines’ Nayong Pilipino); and an overnight stay in Bandung, known for its breathtaking mountain scenery,  cooler climate, and Mount Tangkuban Perahu, an active volcano that last erupted in 1969. 

Short but sweet was our stay in Indonesia. Time again to say goodbye as the dewy-eyed PYs sang Tillo Tillo. 

MALAYSIA, HERE WE COME 

Next stop: Port Klang, Malaysia. En route to Malaysia, it was announced over the PA that today, Oct. 19, had been declared the Equator Crossing Day as we prepared to cross the International  Date Line at exactly 1757 hrs. in longitude 106-31 degrees. That momentous occasion would forever be carved in our collective memory, and I still keep this certificate to remind me in my old  age that when I was young, I had the chance to cross the equator. 

After a quiz contest and some sports events, we were asked to change into our fanciest clothes for the equator crossing ceremony. The Filipino PYs swapped costumes with the Japanese,  Thai, and Indonesian delegates. Some Japanese girls wore our balintawak costumes which we intended to use for our National Day. Some Thai and Japanese boys came in impeccable, well pressed barong Tagalog. It was riotous fun! 

To coincide with the equator crossing, a play was staged by the creative and talented PYs themselves. 

So, what did we do in Malaysia? A lot, five days were simply not enough! 

From Klang, we travelled by bus to Kuala Lumpur (KL). The Governor met with us and urged us to strengthen the ties and bonds of friendship among ASEAN youths while cautioning us against  the cultural exploitation of the West. 

A brief tour of KL brought us to its refreshing lake gardens and KL’s famous landmarks like the Moorish-style Railway Station, Clock Tower, three-story Parliament House with its 18-story  skyscraper office block, National Mosque with its 245-foot minaret, and National Museum. 

Bright and early the next day, we were all set for a 12-hour journey to Penang and a two-night stay with host families. It was our first homestay under SSEAYP 1975. 

Indonesian PY Inke Rafida and I were fetched by our foster parents, Mr. and Mrs. Noordin Ismail, who took us to their Western-style home in a subdivision. There we met our lovely foster sisters  Zarina, Zarini and Zarida who joined us for lunch at an Indian restaurant where we savoured some chicken curry, fried chicken cooked in palm oil, and chili-hot Indian food. In the afternoon, our  foster dad took us to the Abdul Rahman Aquarium, Thai Buddhist Temple with the giant sleeping Buddha, the botanical garden and youth park. 

In the evening, all foster parents were treated to a cultural show at the Sri Pinang Hall. For a nightcap, our mom and dad took me and Inke to a hawker centre where we enjoyed a tall glass of  refreshing kachang (ice nuts) and raw cattlefish. 

There was so much love and laughter in our foster home it was hard to say goodbye to our adoptive family. But on Oct. 25, we waved our sad goodbyes to our foster families who braved the  scorching sun to give us the warmest send-off you could imagine.

PYAESS NATIONAL DAY AND NIGHT 

Side notes: Adding colour to our shipboard experiences were the different festivities held by each delegation, such as the Thais’ Loy Kratong (Festival of Lights), one of the biggest and most  picturesque festivals in Bangkok. The Thais gave such a heartwarming presentation that we all burst into song: Loy Loy Kratong. On the other hand, Malaysia had its Hari Raya Puasa and  Deepavali, where the Deepavali Queen was crowned by Captain Yuba. 

But the most awaited celebration was the PYAESS National Day on Nov. 12. The activity-packed day included various contests open to all PYs, like an art contest for the state flag and insignia  of PYAESS, and a sketch/ drawing contest. In the afternoon, we were all put to the test with assorted sports events like standing long jump, leapfrog, badminton, backward flick, dodge ball,  tunnel ball relay. I could only wish there was something less extreme, like maybe a tempura eating contest? 

Then it was time for the PYAESS variety show, where PYs competed in entertainment contests: comedy skits, elocution contest (won by articulate Filipino PYs Cesar Francisco and Carmina  Galvez), and a contest for the Nippon Maru song. 

Filipino PY Kytt Mier’s Nippon Maru song (lyrics and music) was such a hands-down favourite it later became SSEAYP’s international anthem. Thus, SSEAYP 1975 earned its bragging rights as  the batch that gave birth to the Nippon Maru official song! We continue to sing it in our hearts as though we were still on Nippon Maru “riding the waves over the deep, blue sea” and fully  believing that “the world’s but a home and all peoples a family.” 

Capping yet another exciting day was the crowning of the PYAESS King and Queen. Named PYAESS Queen was Singapore’s police officer Elsie Ho Ah Chin who captured everyone’s hearts  with her easy charm. Ruling the State of PYAESS was King Abdul Aziz of Malaysia. 

LANDING IN THAILAND 

We received a wet reception in Bangkok that was still flooded after a typhoon more than a week before our arrival. Thus, the welcome ceremonies were held on board the ship, beginning with  a Thai ritual to bestow blessings and long life. Pretty Thai girls slipped a string of sampaguita flowers around our wrists. The scent of sampaguita reminded us of home. 

With Bangkok still under water (reminding us of Manila’s floods), we toured the Royal Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Some groups visited the Ancient City in Samut  Prakan province. To complete our tour of Thailand, we visited some schools, like Chulalongkorn University, among the best global universities, where lively discussions were held with students. 

So, did we see the Prime Minister of Thailand? Of course! Prime Minister Kukrit Pramoj even hosted dinner for us at the Government House. 

Wading through flooded streets, our buses arrived at the Government House at 6:15 pm. Fifteen minutes later, Prime Minister Promoj appeared, apologizing for the inconveniences brought by  the floods. The good-humoured Prime Minister joked that we didn’t have to go to the floating market anymore (but we did, the next day). We then gathered around him for some  monumental picture-taking and autograph signing. Our youth leader Kytt Mier offered his back where the Prime Minister gladly signed his autograph on a piece of paper. 

As we left Thailand wearing our sampaguita garlands, waves of nostalgia suddenly swept over us. Why? Because the next stop, the penultimate leg in our six-country itinerary, was the  Philippines! 

PHILIPPINE NATIONAL DAY: OH, WHAT A NIGHT! 

We were so looking forward to going home, but the turbulent seas from Bangkok to Manila, probably the worst we had ever experienced on SS Nippon Maru, proved too much for us. But while  our bodies were sinking, our spirits remained afloat. Seasick or not, it was “all hands on deck” for the Philippine contingent as we prepared to present our National Day while sailing home.

For better coordination, we were each assigned a particular task, everyone had a vital role to play: all 15 girls (me, Ditas Austria, Tetch Canon, Yvonne Castro, Cindi Cidro, Nayds Foronda,  Carmina Galvez, Elsa Jacinto, Ana Ko, Tess Lorenzo, Lita Manalastas, Josie Miranda, Mayu Munarriz, Leah Pacetes, Vini Payno) and 15 boys (Ike Altavas, Jerry Angping, Ding Bautista, Larry  Bustamante, Vic Carrion, Butch Enriquez, Cesar Francisco, Ira Lacson, Allan Melicor, Kytt Mier, Alan Ortiz, Charles Owen, Choy Pidal, Paul Puguon, Henry Tacorda). 

As overall coordinator, Allan listed the following task assignments: program, exhibits, props and decor, manuscripts/audio-visuals, food, invitations, games and sports, RP basketball team,  cultural night/ barrio fiesta featuring a fashion show, songs, and dances, and Pista sa Nayon. 

Because we only had two days and one night to prepare, we had to work till the wee morning hours. 

Our very efficient Tess Lorenzo had all our costumes for the cultural night packed from Manila and carefully flown to Singapore. The native costumes for the dances were kindly lent to us by  the Cultural Centre of the Philippines. Ditas with Leah, etc. took care of the props and decor. We bought some of our decor in Bangkok, like the sampaguita flowers with which we festively  decked the Assembly Hall and Social Lounge. 

What’s a Filipino fiesta without lechon (suckling pig)? In lieu of the real thing, Col. Isleta, with the help of some PYs, fashioned a lechon out of papier mache and wire mesh. To complete the  native ambience, we built a bahay kubo with nipa roof and brought in some banana trees. 

With our manpower fast getting depleted because of seasickness, we had to turn to the other delegations for help. Among the first to come to our rescue were the Japanese, Singaporeans,  and Thais, followed by the rest. The Japanese helped us clean the Assembly Hall of the other night’s Japanese cultural show while the Thais provided us with food and drinks and kept us  company for the night. Now, that was real camaraderie in action! 

And so, our National Day opened with the playing of Filipino music over the PA and the singing of Filipino songs before breakfast in the dining room. 

With the discussions, games, etc. over, we braced ourselves for the main event: the cultural night. At 7:30 pm., the Assembly Hall was slowly filling up as those who were seasick came to  watch us. We were afraid we would be performing for an empty audience. Yvonne misplaced her Singkil fan. Nayds, a very organized person, suddenly lost her Subli costume. We were to  present 14 dances, but there was no time to rehearse all of them. Since we couldn’t bring along our dance instructor who trained us in Manila, Yvonne Castro took it upon herself to memorize  all the dance steps and sequences. 

But the rough seas were uncooperative. The ship was rocking so bad while we were dancing the Pandanggo sa Ilaw that the candle-lit glasses on our heads soon fell one by one. Despite the  mishaps, mistakes, miscues and missteps, the show went on. Our Tinikling dancers, Mayu and Butch, performed like pros while the rest gave it their all in their Subli, Pandanggo, Maglalatik,  and Singkil performances. 

In the end, everybody thanked us for giving them a good laugh and, incidentally, a good overall presentation. 

Side notes: The “babies” in our delegation (Tetch, Yvonne, Ditas, Carmina, Josie) inspired the older ones with their resilience. Elsa, our trusted auditor, kept track of our financial  resources. Makeup expert Nayds made the girls look good for our cultural night. PR guy Henry and Foreign Affairs guy Butch made us forget our seasickness with their antics. Kytt, Cesar, Ira,  Vic, Charles, Ike, Larry, Jerry, Ding, Choy, Paul, Allan were caring big brothers to the girls. Lita and Leah were big sisters to everyone. Guided by our ever supportive “Tito” Nes Isleta, we were  one happy family who was there for each other, in good or bad weather.

MABUHAY, PHILIPPINES! 

On Nov. 7, SS Nippon Maru steamed into Manila South Harbor to a hot, radiant morning. There was a typhoon only a few days before our arrival. As I eagerly craned my neck from the ship deck,  I was greeted by the happy faces of my parents and other people. In the next few days, we would show off the world-famous Filipino hospitality as we hosted our fellow PYs for the homestay  and took them out of town or just around Manila for sightseeing and, yes, shopping at Marikina Shoe Fair and the famous Ilalim ng Tulay ng Quiapo (aka Il de Tulle). We even appeared on TV — our 15 minutes of fame! 

The delegates went crazy over Magnolia ice cream! The boys loved our San Miguel beer! They said those were two things, among many others, that would make them come back to the  Philippines. 

On Nov. 11, it was time to say goodbye (for now), after last-minute huddles with our parents who brought us bags of peanuts, biscuits, chocolates, fruits, even salted eggs for the long journey  ahead. They also packed for us some new pants, clothes, and winter coats for our trip to Japan. 

HAI, WE’RE IN JAPAN! 

I had long dreamt of going to Japan not just to experience its cold weather but also to see its historical sites and marvel at its advanced technology. And now, that dream was right in front of  me! 

Being the host country, Japan was our last port of call. This year, we had the rare privilege of going to Okinawa to see the International Ocean Exposition. From Naha Port, we proceeded in six  buses to the Expo site. We were overwhelmed by the magnificent Aquapolis, aptly called the futuristic floating city covering a million square meters of both land and sea, costing the Japanese  government US$266.6M. 

It was shivering cold in Naha and we were warned that it would be colder in Tokyo, where we were set to disembark from our ship. 

A month of traveling on the high seas made us all hardy seafarers. Yet, when we all disembarked from SS Nippon Maru in Tokyo, never to see her again, we unabashedly wept over leaving our  cabins, the Assembly Hall, Social Lounge, Shade Deck and, of course, the wonderful and caring ship staff and crew headed by our dear Captain Yuba. 

But Tokyo beckoned and we consoled ourselves with thoughts of riding the bullet train and seeing snow for the first time as it was near winter. 

In Tokyo, we checked in at the Pacific Hotel, Tokyo’s newest luxury hotel. We spent 10 days in Tokyo, where the Prime Minister’s Office had earlier arranged our activities, like visits to the  National Diet Building which houses the House of Representatives, National Museum and National Theatre to watch a three-hour kabuki play. 

For the next two days, we enjoyed window-shopping, nightclubbing (even the pop singers know Dahil sa ‘Yo) and traveling within the city via Japan’s super-efficient subway. 

The different solidarity groups were spread over different parts of Japan. My Brotherly group was assigned to Kyoto and Oita. We took a bullet train (with a speed of 130 miles/hour) going to  Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan, 500 kms. from Tokyo. The well-preserved centuries-old shrines and temples of Kyoto still stand today. 

In Oita, a lush mountain city and one of the coldest parts of Japan, we enjoyed a one-night homestay with a typical Japanese family. I was hosted by English school teacher Tsuneharu Tanaka  and his wife Michiko whose father fought in World War II in Leyte.

We had our last homestay in Tokyo. Ana Ko and I stayed with the Anmis of Chofu City: dad Sadakazu, mom Tomoe, and daughters Chie, Kyoko and Kayo. We enjoyed good Japanese food and  warm mattresses for the night. 

Then came our much-awaited audience with Prime Minister Takeo Miki at his Chocolate House. In his welcome speech, interpreted by Administrator Hideshi Honda, Prime Minister Miki said  that despite our varying cultures, “We are all Asians and if we cooperate with each other, there will be prosperity and security in Asia.” 

And so, the program ended on Nov. 28, 1975. Amid the soft glow of flickering candles, we exchanged our final tearful goodbyes and sang the Nippon Maru song together for the last time. But  deep in our hearts we knew it wasn’t going to be the end but only the beginning of a beautiful friendship. 

Looking back now, our journey of a thousand miles surely began with the Ship for Southeast Asian Youth Program which changed our lives forever. 

• Coming soon.